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The Capital Grille, popular on the east coast for its old-boy's-club feel, is opening its first SoCal location next month in the Beverly Center. On the corner of San Vicente and Beverly Boulevard, the 21-year-old restaurant chain sports an upstairs balcony and street level entrance, gilded and engraved, design points that distinguish this addition from its 1980s-style shopping mall home. As with any chain, there's something comforting about all of the pomp and circumstance. It's not a modern steakhouse, like that of BLT Steak on the Sunset Strip or Wolfgang's in Beverly Hills. If you've been to one Capital Grille -- the Olive Garden's richer, American cousin -- you've been to them all. The inside nods at red meat with plenty of rouge, leather, and ironwork sculptures of majestic, masculine creatures: a bald eagle, wings spread, guards the entrance to the open kitchen; bronze horses, in a proud stance, preside over booths.
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