Natalie Decleve, our official Spring Fashion Week 2011 corespondent is hard at work documenting the shows this week. Check out her gallery from the first two days of work here: [Natalie's FW Gallery] and read below for her take on the shows!
In her latest collection, Jenni Kayne showed an affinity for silk-satin; dipped in a rainbow of colors and appearing in the form of blouses, skirts and billowing pants. Monochromatic looks mingled with more traditional styling, and hemlines bounced seamlessly from floor grazing to mini. Hot pink lips and an absence of jewelry gave the collection a distinctly modern feel.
Hypnotizing live music by Water Fai welcomed visitors to Mara Hoffman’s dreamlike presentation this afternoon. Turban topped models with Yoko Ono style round sunglasses were scattered among kohl-eyed girls shrouded in chiffon headdresses to match their floor-length gowns. Accented by tassels, tribal prints and layered jewelry – the vibe was both earthy and other-worldly.
The entire Wayne show seemed geared to keep you on edge…from the eerie and pounding sounds coming from the loudspeakers, to the uncomfortably thin and pale models with their hair plastered to their scalp. The post apocalyptic
setting showcased a collection that was ironically inspired by the Renaissance. A limited palette of mostly black and white allowed for show stealing moments of flaming red. Skirts with long hemlines were done in satin (for the 2nd time today) and layered with shearling and leather toppers.
IN OTHER NEWS:
VENA CAVA [Above and Gallery HERE] hearkened back to the 90’s with chokers, cropped tops and tiny black and white polka dots. BCBG called on an earlier decade with a chic and muted 70’s inspired collection, reminiscent of Pheobe Philo’s recent designs for Celine. NICHOLAS K showed a New York friendly collection of utilitarian pieces, done almost entirely in black – while LYNN DEVON played with primary colors using conservative and sometimes boxy silhouettes. CHRISTIAN SIRIANO rounded out the day with a black orchid themed collection that was killer – literally… as in models bit-it left, right and center due to some seriously hefty heels.
Tommy Hilfiger mingled through the crowd at the NAHM presentation this morning, every bit the proud papa you’d expect at his daughter, Ali Hilfiger’s debut collection. NAHM is actually co-designed by Ali and Nary Manivong - who’s documentary, Dressed (http://www.dressed-themovie.com/) just opened last Friday. Inspired by the Edgar Alan Poe’s The Raven, motionless, bushy-browed models wore asymmetric hemlines and sheer skirts highlighted in a range of autumnal colors.
For FW2011, Rebecca Taylor did what she does best, which is to present a collection of feminine and wearable clothes. In a palette rich with jewel tones and laced with soft grey pieces throughout – printed silk pants met with open weave sweaters, and boxy jackets were accented with fur, feathers and sparkle. At once ladylike and girlish, the collection is sure to satisfy the loyal Rebecca Taylor customer.
IN OTHER NEWS:
PETER SOM played with heavy brocades and mixed textures in a collection that was black, white and red all over, while RUFFIAN went black – tie appropriate with a female take on tuxedo dressing. TESS GIBERSON went crazy for cowl-necks with cozy knits layered under fur vests and asymmetric cuts on belted dresses.