Dovetail Praises Mean It's Time To Head Uptown

Feb 20, 2008 4:18 PM

dovetail

[Photo via NY Mag]

I haven't been to dinner on the Upper West Side in over a year.  Scratch that, I think I only have been ONCE to a real dinner at least (and not just Zabars or brunch), and that was when I went to Ouest .  This month, it looks like I'm going to have to make the trek up to the UWS to find out what the big fuss about Dovetail is all about .  Especially because today Frank Bruni published his review and was raving about the place:

"What a warm surprise. And what a testament to the intriguing, compelling work that John Fraser, Dovetail’s chef and principal owner, is doing here.  Both he and his pastry chef, Vera Tong, come at their cooking with intellect and wit, but they seldom get too cerebral, too cute. Leaving quotation marks out of the titles of dishes, they leave it to you to make certain connections.  The inconspicuousness of the restaurant’s entrance may be bonkers or in fact brilliant, a subtle signal of Dovetail’s confidence in its inner strength. [NY Times]

John Fraser also opened the French Laundry in Napa Valley, Taillevant in Paris, and Snack Taverna and Compass in NYC, though Dovetail may outshine them all.  Adam Platt also raves about the place calling it an "unexpected little miracle", and although in an unlikely location on 77th and near Columbus is "worth the trip".  But, the real test of quality comes out of course on Yelp.com...my go to site for any new spot.  I trust the people on Yelp more than the reviewers and, what do you know? Dovetail passed with flying colors.

To contact the author of this post, email rachelle@guestofaguest.com
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