For those of you who can’t keep up with the onslaught of new pizzeria’s opened since the new year, I’m with ya….Good thing I stumbled upon Kest? Pizza E Vino on my daily walks to the Path. The much hyped Neapolitan-style pizzeria and wine bar had been featured everywhere from Grub Street to Serious Eats before it officially opened this Sunday. Following its progress for months, I had the pleasure to sample some off-the-menu items and experience one of those unforeseen New York moments we all love.
First let’s talk pizza. The crust is charred to crispy perfection in about 1-minute in the wood-burning oven (around 1000 degrees). The classic Margherita is simple goodness of crushed San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, basil and dough. Note the lack of garlic in the aforementioned list, for this was sternly addressed by a young chef as the enemy of any quality pizza. As he explained why, I quickly recounted the many slices I’ve had over time, and realized how garlic seems to dominate the taste of them all.
The sauce is the star in my mind, with nothing but a touch of salt added to the already sweet and surprisingly refreshing pulp. It comes out of the oven literally boiling with heat, and is enjoyed best when eaten immediately. This will also help keep the middle of the pizza from becoming soggy and the cheese soft and melted.
Although they were closed to the public during my visit, their defining moment came when a father-daughter couple curiously made their way in from the street. The father, a self proclaimed pizza expert (which was quickly confirmed after just minutes of speaking with him), had simply hoped to catch a glimpse of the space as he eagerly awaited the opening later that weekend. Instead of inviting them back Sunday and sending them on their way, Kest? owner Roberto Caporuscio calmly seated them at a table, and within minutes presented them a piping hot Margherita pie followed up with a special “Pizza Del Nutella” for dessert. This small gesture had clearly warmed their hearts, and had created one of those “serendipitous” moments that I hope everyone randomly enjoys in this city. It may have just been pizza, but its effects were felt well beyond a typically satisfying lunch.
I went on to sample two special pizza’s that are not listed on the menu: Pizza del Re (percorino/truffle/porchini) and the Pizza Del Sole (bell pepper puree/capers/anchovie/ricotta).
Each had their own clean, dissimilar taste which showcases Kest?’s ability to take a few simple ingredients and enhance their flavors, rather than hide them under a sauce.
I look forward to many more walks to the Path, now with pizza on my mind…