Union Square is getting some flair as T.G.I. Friday's moves in. Its trademark red and white awning is dawning, which some see as the area's umpteenth death knell. But it's actually a homecoming. And Friday's isn't the first NYC-based chain to bring the greasy, pesticidal chickens home to roost.
New Yorkers instinctively hate chain businesses and chain restaurants in particular. (Except for when they don't.) It's like people who come to New York and shop at Abercrombie: why bother when there are dozens of better (and often cheaper) one-of-a-kind alternatives nearby?
A generic national chain settling down in Union Square really gets people going for three reasons: the site's history as a place for activism and protest, the antithetical positioning of a grease pit a mesclun salad's throw away from the park's beloved Greenmarket, and the Square's nearly extinct role as a state of mind between staid up and freaky deaky downtown. (Andy Warhol's late career Factory was just across the park from Friday's. Can't you see him and Ondine there, noshing on wings?)
Here's what some Eater commenters had to say about it:
"f the malling and midwesting of New York Shitty. Thanks Bloomberg the nail is in the coffin."
"To me the big deal is come to nyc and it looks just like Cleveland (N.B. It's always, always Cleveland)...NYC used to be a place u needed to be in or you had to be tough enough to make it here. Now, it's the Mall of America."
But we should go easier on Friday's. After all, the monster was born right here in Manhattan. And it's one of a handful of chains that started in NYC, blew up all over the country and, like a deep-fried boomerang, came back to haunt and taunt us with hometown proliferation.
Here are a few of them:
Nathan's: An obvious one, and a New York-based chain that's hard to hate given the colorful history and glorious present of the 1916 Coney Island original. There are currently four Nathan's in NYC (a possibly inaccurate number, since the website omits the founding Nathan's from its store locating map) and no better place to witness inhuman hot dog gobbling than off the boardwalk every July 4th.
Planet Hollywood: One of the more egregious examples of chains birthed in the city due to its glorification of all things Los Angeles and, like a greedy studio head, premeditated franchising. Arnold Schwartzenegger, Sylvester Stallone and Bruce Willis, maybe anticipating their midlife decay and action star obsolescence, opened the first Planet Hollywood in 1991 on 57th Street, back when 57th Street swarmed with kitschy theme restaurants. A few years later Times Square became safe for places like PH, and it inexplicably survives there to this day.On the other hand, New York has put its unique stamp on some chains that arrived in the city from elsewhere:
Also, Limelight took off in Hollywood, Florida and touched down in Atlanta before its New York facsimile became part of local lore. And look how well that turned out.
tellthetruth
June 16, 2010
6:54pm
nice reporting Billy. Here in NYC there is an interesting aspect to these chain vomitoria. We urban "sophisticates" may find them vile and an embarassment and strictly for the tourists yet many of our neighbors, mostly black and hispanic NYC natives, LOVE these places and are willing to wait on long lines to eat at them. What accounts for this chain resto urban demographic? It surely is not price or convenience because the prices at Outback Steakhouse and Olive Garden often exceed that of neighborhood places and the waits are interminable.
whythefuss
June 16, 2010
8:34pm
why all the fuss about a chain moving into union square? there are already so many chains there!!! at&t, heartland brewery, forever 21, whole foods, BABIES R US!!!! the list goes on... the "malling and midwesting" of New York City??? please, i think you people are just angry cuz you're from the suburbs and you moved out of the suburbs to get away from the "chains," but now you feel stupid because we have the same things right here in new york. stop being ashamed of your suburban background and pretending to live like a "sophisticated urbanite." you're not a native, you never will be. we can spot you a mile away. the only real natives are the ones who were born here.
Peter_Feld
June 17, 2010
5:23pm
The original TGIF on the UES was awesometown if you were a teenager in the '70s when there was no drinking age in NYC, well, technically it was 18 but never enforced and it never occurred to me to get a fake ID. You'd go in on a weekend night around 10pm and the whole room was filled with 15-year-olds drinking Tequila Sunrises. What goes around comes around, maybe I'll order one at the Union Square branch.