9. Paulie Gee's - Greenpoint
What you're ordering: Anise and Nephew
Started up by a guy who used to cook 'za in his backyard, this wood-burning Neapolitan spot brings in wild the things like the Monte Cristo with Gouda, Canadian bacon, and a "pure maple syrup drizzle", plus the Anise and Nephew topped with mozz, braised fennel, anisette-cream drizzle, Berkshire guanciale, and fennel fronds that're SO much better than Sbarro's fennel fronds.