Thomas Wylde: Makeup
INSPIRATION: "Key makeup artist, Kathy Jeung, aimed for an elevated natural-glam look with golds and browns. Her emphasis was a soft contour of the face and eyes, with a black-rimmed and smudged waterline from 3/4 of the eye outward, natural brows, a defined lash line, and nude lips with lightly glossed centers of the lips and eyes," explains makeup artist Emily Oliver.
1. EYES: "Using Smashbox Photo Finish 24 Hour Shadow Primer, I made sure that the whole lid was coated from lash line to brow bone to ensure long staying power. I swept a light, matte, neutral color out of the Smashbox Full Exposure Palette to match the tone of the model's skin, then buffed a soft taupe/brown contour into the outside of the eye, to the temple. Using the black Smashbox Always Sharp Waterproof Kohl Pencil, I coated the waterline of both top and bottom lids 3/4 of the way toward the outside of the eye, and smudged it to soften the edges. Next, I used Smashbox Limitless 15 Hour Wear Cream Shadow in Rich Gold on the inner corner of the eye area buffed out to achieve a gorgeous highlighted look. I made sure that the model's brows had structure, but were not overly drawn—the idea of natural brows was huge for the show. I then wiggled mascara on the top lashes only, to enhance the lash line without adding length as Ms. Jeung wanted a defined eye, and not a long-lash look."
2. FACE: "I coated a small amount of matte foundation (I blended Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation with MAC Studio Face and Body Foundation) to the whole face, and made sure that my model was concealed but not "cakey," using Make Up For Ever 5 Camouflage Cream Palette in No. 1."
3. CHEEKS: "Using Too Faced Chocolate Soleil Matte Bronzer, I buffed a matte contour a couple shades deeper than the model's natural skin tone into the cheek hollows, then onto the temples. I then used a beautiful Smashbox highlighter (Fusion Soft Lights) to blend the top of the cheek bones and the temples together to soften the look. No blush."
4. LIPS: "I swept Smashbox Be Legendary Lipstick in Nylon Nude onto the lips, and defined the cupid's bow with the same gold cream shadow I used from the inner corner of the eye. I took a tiny bit of gloss to the center of the lip, and to the center of the eyelid right before the models went on the runway."
5. FINISH: "I set the look with a translucent powder (Laura Mercier Invisible Loose Setting Powder is great), and continued to use blotting sheets to keep the model's skin a satin matte without adding texture."
[Photo courtesy of makeup artist Emily Oliver]