All you need to do is poke your head through the entrance of Tacombi’s Nolita location, veiled with a heavy embroidered cloth, to see how many people are scrambling to get a slice of the Mexican beach life. Festooned with threads of light and multicolored murals, the entire room revolves around the original Tacombi truck that once traveled up and down the shores of Yucatan selling fresh tacos from its windows. Now anchored in this airy warehouse on Elizabeth Street, the truck remains the most important element of the room, its doors and windows thrown open to cook and serve flavorful, uniquely drafted tacos to Manhattan’s hungry diners. Tacombi is the brainchild of Mexican-born Dario Wolos who, along with head chef Oscar Hernadez and manager Luis Berenbau, seeks to prove how light, fresh and diverse true Mexican cooking can be. We sat down with Oscar and Luis, munching market fish tacos, lime-drenched ceviche and corn esquites as they sung praises of Mexico, 9 am pork belly, and why the taco is taking over.
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[Photos by Issy Croker]
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