The Art Of The Dinner Party, With Alimentari Flaneur

Everything Daniel Emilio Soares touches seems to turn into a chic cornucopia of fresh figs, fruits de mer, and fabulous people.

Such is the way of Alimentari Flaneur.

Infused with sumptuous simplicity, the gourmet grocer slash caterer slash lifestyle brand has, increasingly, managed to do the impossible: bring the art of slow living to famously frenzied New Yorkers. 

As a fourth-generation New York Balducci (his heritage includes the namesake specialty store as well as Grace's Marketplace), Daniel has put his own spin on his family legacy, first launching Alimentari Flaneur as a Euro-inspired retail concept, then expanding to epicurean collaborations with a slew of stylish brands and hosts, creating spreads for, most recently, the likes of Ghia, Otherland, and The Allure Store.

You've probably seen some of the signature photos shared on Instagram - brightness turned down, candlelight shining, a luxurious layout of crudités and cured meats. A sense of sexy indulgence in the air. 

The "vibes" alone make even the most unskilled entertainer (like moi) want to invite their friends over for a Dionysian dinner party.

So, of course, we had to ask him how he does it. 

It seems you have 'Gourmet Grocer' built into your DNA. How has your heritage and family history informed your path to Alimentari Flaneur?
My family has built two iconic and beautiful stores here in New York City. It is something I’m deeply proud of, though I’ve had a complicated relationship with it. I’ve reflected on that a lot, this idea that my family’s sensibilities are embedded in the way I know how to express hospitality. As I’ve begun to learn what it means to be a “gourmet grocer,” I’ve really developed a deeper appreciation for all that my family has done. Because I now see how hard it is. 

Me starting Alimentari was a way to honor my family’s legacy and history while also giving myself permission to tell my own story, in my own way. It was a form of catharsis and liberation —especially after having spent a few years working in the business. How I’ve set out building Alimentari is very much informed by the last two great “ grocers” in NYC. Balducci’s & Dean & Deluca. They both were revolutionary. However, what I’ve come to realize is, and this is something I think I now truly understand, is that there was/is a major difference between Balducci’s/Grace’s and Dean & Deluca. I used to talk with my family about how Dean & Deluca built and scaled a genuine lifestyle brand — which I believe is one of the best & most feasible ways to build a profitable gourmet grocery business. That difference is soul. I’ll expand on that another time.

Your shops and pop-ups over the past few years turn the simple act of grocery shopping into... something transformative. An experience. What do you aim to capture or reflect when you set up shop?
The beauty of the everyday. I believe that if I can get you to take a moment of your day to stop and consider the beauty of a peach, to truly revel in its sweetness, then that idea will permeate other aspects of your life. The world contains beauty in abundance, but I think we need to be reminded of what’s right in front of us. I know I do. I also want to reinforce Charles Eames’s idea of taking your pleasure seriously, which I think means knowing that we have to let it marinate. Shopping seasonal produce and eating well as a result isn’t a radical or moral act. It’s an innately human one that in and of itself, is worthy of exaltation.

We've also seen Alimentari Flaneur collaborate on some gorgeous events. What is your philosophy when it comes to entertaining?
My philosophy for entertaining is to do it with a touch of sprezzatura. A studied carelessness. A happy accident. You have to enjoy it. Entertain because you like to. Because it brings you joy to create joy. The rest will sort itself out. What I’ve found is that it really doesn’t matter how good your food is or if there are fried zucchini flowers stuffed with lemon & pepper ricotta.

What matters is that you made people feel comfortable, seen, and cared for.

How do you prepare for a dinner party or gathering with friends?
I strip down and make a mess in the kitchen. Just kidding. But not really.

I go to the market to get inspired and then ideas start flowing. Or sometimes I’ve read something or watched a film that’s inspired me and then I think to myself, how can I capture the essence of that thing and share it with other people so that they can feel how I feel, see how I see? When I do that, that’s usually the best party because now the conversation is flowing and we’re all getting something more than just pan con tomate. (Which is enough, tbh.)

Your spreads have spawned their own genre of "aesthetic" on social media. What's the secret to curating a perfect grazing table?
I doubt that I’m the sole cause of that, but thank you. As with all good things, it comes from a place of ingenuity. The secret to curating a perfect grazing table is to use foods that you absolutely adore, because people will taste that adoration. Use what you have, use what you know, OR, use it as an opportunity to revel in the joy of discovering something new. For example, a year and a half ago, I had never eaten a passion fruit in my entire life. Had not an inkling of what it tasted like, how it smelled, what joy it brought. Now? It’s a staple. When in season of course.

Is there an art to creating an atmosphere fitting for the occasion?
Yes, by asking questions.

We have to ask: Who are your dream dinner party guests (living or dead)?
I love this question. I'm daunted by it. So many!! I have to give myself parameters or else I’ll run wild with ideas and won’t have enough food to serve everyone. I prefer intimate gatherings anyway.

Gianni Agnelli, Anthony Bourdain, my grandfather, Monica Bellucci, MFK Fisher, Bella Hadid, and Farmer Brooke.

I’d probably invite Dali and 1980s Madonna over for dessert.

Do you have a secret party trick?
Edible tablescapes.

When in doubt: ______
KISS

Keep it simple, stupid.

Do you have any upcoming plans for Alimentari Flaneur we should watch for?
I’m moving to Portugal.

[Photos via @alimentariflaneur/Dinner party photo by @hedistanton]