Fried Arroz Negro with Squid and "Romesco"
1 1/3 cups short-grain brown rice
2 cups water
1 tablespoon squid or cuttlefish ink
Kosher salt
Extra-virgin olive oil
Grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons Sofrito
3 scallions, thinly sliced
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons Squid ink stock
1 1/2 teaspoons Green Garlic Juice
Scant 1 teaspoon shoyu
1 1/2 teaspoons fish sauce
1 or 2 medium squid, cut into very thin slices
Put the rice in a sieve and rinse it in a large bowl of cold water, draining several times until the water runs clear.
Whisk together the water, squid ink, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a medium pot. Add the rice and bring to a boil, then cover the pot, reduce the heat to the lowest setting, and cook for 40 minutes, until the rice is tender and all the water is absorbed. Remove from the heat and spread the rice on a parchment-lined baking sheet to cool.
When cool, put the baking sheet in the refrigerator overnight, uncovered. This will dry out the rice so you get it as crisp as possible when you fry it.
Gather all your ingredients and have them handy near the stove. Get a carbon-steel or cast-iron pan ripping hot - over your stove's highest heat - for 5 minutes or until it begins to smoke. Meanwhile, combine 1 tablespoon olive oil and 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil in a small cup.
Put 1 teaspoon of the oil mixture in the pan and swirl it around, then dump the cold cooked rice into the pan and pat it down with a spatula in an even layer, like a big pancake. Dollop the sofrito on top. The rice should start to crackle immediately and smoke slightly; this means the pan is hot enough. Let the rice cook undisturbed for about 5 mites, until it smells toasty. Lift an edge with the spatula and peek at the underside; it should be a deep golden brown, with a few charred bits.
Then use a swirling motion to rotate the rice "cake" around the pan. If the rice isn't releasing from the pan, add a touch more oil and bang the pan against the burner, or loosen it with the spatula. Let it cook for about 4 more minutes.
Now comes the flip. Grabbing a handle with two hands, shake the pan and trip to flip the rice like a pancake. It's okay if not all of it flips or if it breaks into pieces, or if you have to use a spatula to turn it over.
Drizzle a little more oil around the edge of the pan, then let it cook for another 4 minutes or so. Swirl the rice cake in the pan again; it should be crunchy in parts and the pan should still be smoking hot. If the rice is not releasing, add another touch of oil. Flip it again and break it up with a spatula. Continue flipping for 20 to 30 seconds to mix the crispy bits in. Drizzle another teaspoon of oil around the edge and scatter the scallions over the rice. Leave on the heat for another minute.
At this point, the rice should be nicely crisped, well browned, and even a little blackened on the bottom; you're looking for that seat spot between charred and burnt. There should be a few crispy clumps throughout. If you don't think it's crispy enough, let it go for another minute or so.
Add the squid ink stock, shaking the pan to incorporate it. Add the garlic juice, shoyu, and fish sauce, scraping the bottom the pan. Add the squid, toss with the spatula or flip to fully incorporate everything, toss once more, and turn off the heat. The rice should be salty and briny, like the ocean. Now you're ready to plate.
Set two plates side by side. Spoon half the aioli onto the center of each, spoon the romesco on top, and sprinkle with hazelnuts.
Place a 5-inch ring mold in the center of one plate, fill it with half the rice, and smooth the surface. Lift off the ring mold and repeat on the second plate with the remaining rice. Sprinkle each cake with lemon zest and juice and serve.