Bubby's Owner Ron Silver On The Secret To Creating A New York Brunch Landmark

Everyone values the weekend, but a true New Yorker really values the brunch that accompanies those carefree 48 hours. And yet, every week, the age-old question creeps up: where are we brunching? Although I may not have the secret to hacking Resy, I can tell you where you should actually bother trying to get a table. 

To put it simply, Bubby’s is an institution. A New York classic. A brunch landmark. Just look at the line down the block to get a table and you’ll understand what I mean. Anyone who's anyone knows this is the place to be - just ask my own New York Bubby! 

The walls are decorated with art from owner and manager Ron Silver’s own gallery, Ron Silver Studio, adding to the fun and cozy vibe. The menu offers true and delicious comfort food; I recommend the fried chicken and pancakes, bacon mac ‘n’ cheese, biscuits, and the world famous pancakes. On second thought, maybe just bring a group of hungry friends and order as much as your table will fit. Just make sure you save room for a slice of the pie, given that it’s delicious enough to have inspired the whole restaurant in the first place.

I was fortunate enough to not only feast at Bubby’s (and feast I did...), but interview Silver and learn more about his past, his inspiration, and his restaurant!

Since 1990, when you started selling pies, what has stayed consistent in terms of Bubby’s? What are you most proud of since then?
Looking back on Bubby’s, I’m proud to have had a kind of consistency from day one that I can see myself. Several things have not changed at all: our pancakes; the pumpkin pie; the cherry pie, for example. It is satisfying to build something with integrity, especially in this day and age.

What is your personal favorite pie?
It depends on the season: Spring, it is strawberry rhubarb; summer it is blueberry; autumn I love apple pie; and nothing makes me happier than the first slice of pumpkin pie each year.

What is your favorite dish at the restaurant, either to make or to eat?
Sourdough pancakes. Although, the fried chicken...

Does Ron Silver Studio influence Bubby’s or vice versa?
They both allow me to be creative, which is something I care about very much.

Can you tell me a little bit about your childhood and growing up? Were you always interested in food and becoming a chef?
My childhood was like Huck Finn's childhood, but with drugs and rock and roll – and cooking. I always cooked, ever since I was a young child.

I’d love to hear about the creative and logistical influence you have on the restaurant’s day to day - could you tell me about that?
My goal at Bubby’s is always to find the best recipe, borrow it, mess with it, and serve it in a
consistent manner. As far as day to day logistics, Bubby's has a team that runs the place like
Olympians. My role is to walk through and make sure the energy is good and that things are
right.

How do you decide what to create / put on the menu? Are there any classic dishes that have been on the menu since opening or that you would never change?
We have been around for 31 years. We have a deep well of old tricks and we use them all the time.

How have you dealt with Covid and what have you taken with you from the experience over the last 2 years?
During the shutdown, I learned how to make bread. As soon as we could, we bought a bread oven and started making our own bread at Bubby's. This effort has helped define our flexibility, innovation and willingness to try new things. We have been able to maintain a good positive outlook, and Bubby’s is busier than ever.

[Note: While you’re in line to get a table, snag yourself a pastry or some freshly baked bread from the pastry case outside to start your meal early or to enjoy later.]

How do you think restaurants will continue to be affected by Covid?
In a million ways. We’ve stayed the course and will be prepared to take on whatever comes our way next.

What advice would you give any up and coming chef or restaurateur about how to create a landmark New York restaurant such as Bubby’s?
If you are truly dead set on opening a restaurant...my advice would be, you better have something good to offer. I personally do not look at trends, ever. I only cook what I want to. And I count on the people out front to make the experience convivial, memorable, warm, and cherished. It is not the restaurant, but the soul of the restaurant that people love. My best suggestion is to make sure you have a soul.

[Photos via Bubby's]