Though Frank Bruni and Adam Platt eviscerated Jeffery Chodorow's exotic steak mothership, all three Kobe Clubs (the other two are in Miami and East Hampton), are doing well enough for Chodorow to lay down plans for a fall Acapulco branch and another, whose exact location has yet to be determined, in L.A. Certainly the Kobe Beach Club here has been a major success -every time I've driven by, its parking lot has been clogged with luxury European automobiles. Perhaps sharing space with Lily Pond has its benefits?
I've never eaten there, but the critics out here seem to like it. Honestly, I think that even if the food isn't particularly noteworthy, diners will come. Kobe beef is trendy, nichey, and expensive, three characteristics that are bound to attract a certain type of people. As long as Chodorow continues to choose his locations wisely (and not, say, in San Francisco), his escalation to his aspired Wolfgang Puck status seems eminent. Pretty soon you'll be able to buy boxed Kobe beef sliders at your local airport. Schwing!
[NYMag]
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