Torien (One Star)
A dramatic ode to the yakitori tradition of flame-skewering bite-sized chicken, chef/owner Yoshiteru Ikegawa puts on a 13-course show at Torien, a sexy chef's counter in Noho. Here, he and his team employ a binchotan charcoal grill to cook up every part of the bird in the Japanese style, from the skin to the heart. Let's just say it's not your typical grilled chicken order.
Torien, 292 Elizabeth St.
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